![]() ![]() It has a thoroughness that you don’t really see any more.” That had been done before, but Claudia did it in more detail and with more sophistication than anyone else.” The chef, writer and restaurateur Yotam Ottolenghi agrees. “I love it for the narrative embroidery around the recipes. “In many ways it was the first great encyclopedia of Jewish life,” says the historian and keen cook Simon Schama. Although it sits on my cookbook shelf, and includes many recipes, The Book of Jewish Food is not really a cookbook at all. It’s fitting that my first interaction with Roden’s masterpiece should not have been to consult a recipe, or check a cooking technique, but to nail a point of cultural practice. ‘Any excuse for grating up potatoes and frying them must be taken’: Jay’s version of Roden’s Latkes. ![]()
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